A six-hour, night-schedule haul on lower angle glacier to the entrance of the King Trench. Phone: 1-867-841-4204: Mobile: Few places on Earth are as high, and cold, and remote as Mount Logan. Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. To reach its summit brings an elusive membership into to a rare group of individuals that have stood on the highest point of Canada. Scale unimaginable, Location Remote. In 1925 Albert H. MacCarthy had just led a successful first ascent of Mount Logan in Canada, composed of climbers from Canada, Britain and the United States. NOTE ON SNOWSHOES: The Mount Logan Ice Expedition 2020-2021 is a multidisciplinary scientific initiative that seeks to preserve, celebrate, and advance knowledge about climate and change on Canada’s highest peak. The Changing Boundaries of Mount Olympus National Monument, Wallgren's Park Proposals, and Forest Service Primitive ... One such expedition was by Judge James Wickersham and his family. Terms of Use, ALL ABOUT THE MOUNT LOGAN ICE EXPEDITION 2020-21, RCGS-sponsored Geological Survey of Canada expedition, COVID 19 TASKFORCE: WORLDWIDE CLIMBING PICTURE, Launching the first-ever global survey on waste in mountains: Add your voice, UIAA MEMBERS ANNOUNCE ELECTION OF NEW PRESIDENTS, KIROV BRINGS DOWN CURTAIN ON 2020-21 SEASON. Mount Logan is the source of the Hubbard and Loganglaciers. Mais pas suffisant. The Mount Logan Ice Expedition 2020-2021 is a multidisciplinary scientific initiative that seeks to preserve, celebrate, and advance knowledge about climate and change on Canada’s highest peak. Mount Logan Expeditions. Au cœur des grands espaces du Yukon : le Mont Logan, deuxième plus haut sommet d’Amérique du nord. Our property borders Kluane National Park, and is just 9 km from Haines Junction. Ces deux-là ont donc corsé l’affaire par une descente en eaux vives. Everything about the trip is big, including the scale of the region’s geography, which is enormous. Mount Logan is the highest mountain in Canada, and the second-highest peak in North America after Denali. With the help of an air taxi approach from Kluane Lake to the Alaskan-Yukon border, today’s teams can cut the expedition length to a manageable three weeks. Kilimanjaro in the time of Covid. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions. From King Col we’ll route find up the MacCarthy Gap, a 1,500-foot high slope with angles of up to 45 degrees. The University of Alberta is preparing to return to Mount Logan’s summit plateau in May of 2020 and 2021, with the intent to drill an updated core and bring the record to present, as well as to advance other projects by deploying new analytical methods. Trip starts and ends in Anchorage. This 3 week adventure is not your typical ascent because not only will we be climbing, but we will also be spending quite a bit of time skiing on the mountain as well. This work will add an additional two weeks of living on the high plateau itself. Weather permitting, we’ll fly to base camp on the Quintino Sella Glacier. Logan is believed to have the largest base circumference o… If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. The ultimate goal will be to create a new, publicly-accessible dataset of paired images (old beside new) that can help document high-altitude landscape change over the past 100 years. A new chapter in that advancement, and in adventure, began in the 1980s with the emergence of ice core science. We have our own Mountain Madness neck gaiter available for purchase! Mount Logan is located in the St. Elias Mountain Range of Canada’s Yukon Territory and is the second highest peak in North America. The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) was founded in 1932 and has a global presence on six continents representing 89 member associations and federations in 66 countries. Carry to 15,300 feet / 4663 meters. Please dispose of human wastes as required by Parks Canada. In May 2021, with the exact drill site located, we’ll return to the mountain to complete the actual drilling work. Mount Logan 1977. It is only 593 shorter than Denali. Places To Stay Glacier Camp. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. Switzerland, office (at) theuiaa.org Together, its elevation, its sheer size, its high northern latitude (60 ̊ north latitude), and its proximate coastal position make the mountain a coveted prize for the world’s mountaineering elite. Acquire all of your equipment well in advance. In May 1992, an RCGS-sponsored Geological Survey of Canada expedition, using GPS, determined Mount Logan’s current height to be 5,959 metres (19,551 ft). In 2001 and 2002, the oldest ice-core record ever collected from the North Pacific region was drilled by a team of federal scientists high on Mount Logan’s summit plateau, near the saddle between Prospector and Russell peaks (5,300 metres). from $8,985 Check boot fit with thin and thick socks on, Synthetic or down to keep feet warm while in tent, Insulated boots rated for 8,000-meter peak climbs with a warm removable liner and built in, insulated overboot, La Sportiva Olympus Mons, Scarpa Phantom 8000, Salomon X-Ultra 3 Mid, Merrell Moab, La Sportiva Boulder Ex. Possibly move a small load. Two concurrent projects will be carried out alongside the ice-core work: a physiology study, and a historical landscape analysis. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day, Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide, waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent, Synthetic or down with full side zip. Make a cache at around 15,300 feet / 4663 meters for Camp 4 and return to King Col. A short day to rest and acclimatize. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip! STEWARDSHIP: Please consider the environmental impact of your trash and human waste. Prerequisites include altitude experience over 14,000 feet / 4267 meters, solid glacier travel skills, winter camping experience, and excellent physical fitness. The UIAA has been recognised by the International Olympic Committee (IOC) since 1995. Climbers should be comfortable on 45 to 60 degree snow/ice slopes, waterfall ice climbing up to WI2-WI3, and/or moderate rock from 5.6-5.8. Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include: Group members fly into Whitehorse in Yukon Territories and must be present for the team meeting at 9 am on Day 1 of the expedition. Mount Logan from the northeast. The Logan Massif. You will wear this over your light weight base layer, Mountain Equipment Eclipse Half-Zip Hoodie, This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. Single carry to Camp 1. wired straight-gates are recommended, One full-sized ascender with handle for fixed lines (left handed for right handed climbers, or vice-versa), be sure to get nylon not dyneema (18mm width), A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun. Logan Climb. Twelve distinct peaks rise above 5,000 metres (16,400 ft) from its twenty-kilometre-long summit plateau. Fly to Kluane Lake and transfer to Whitehorse. On his return, Wickersham sent letters to a number of pub- The traverse of Logan’s summit area presents a considerable high-altitude effort of almost 4 miles of climbing between 17,600 feet / 5364 meters and the true summit at 19,545 feet / 5957 meters. Bern 14 Er zählt zu den „Second Seven Summits“ und den herausforderndsten Bergen des Kontinents. Expeditions to Mount Logan. Donnatal for stomach cramps. The mountain was named after Sir William Edmond Logan, a Canadian geologist and founder of the Geological Survey of Canada (GSC). Many factors can, and probably will, contribute to cause the following schedule to change. Over two spring expeditions, both up Mount Logan's King Trench route, this team's objectives also include re-measuring the official height of the main summit and its sub-summits. Logan, Utah 1979 . We’ll then have individual gear checks. The ’96 Mount Logan Expedition for Heart is a scientific expedition and a part of the University of Ottawa's 20th Anniversary celebrations. Trip leaders will be UIAGM certified guides. The biggest chunk of rock, ice and snow in the world. Combine this with all its other challenges — significant glacier travel through icefalls and huge crevasses, cold temperatures, and extreme weather due to its proximity to the Gulf of Alaska – we consider Logan to be one of the most strenuous high-altitude climbs we offer at Mountain Madness. Depart at 7am for Kluane Lake (two hours by shuttle), and then fly to Base Camp. First, beginning in September 2019, the Edmonton-based members of the team will work closely with UAlberta sport scientists studying altitude acclimatization performance utilizing a novel training regime. Mount Logan Ice Expedition 2021-2022 A multidisciplinary scientific initiative that seeks to preserve, share, and advance knowledge about climate and change on Canada’s highest peak. Rich has probably been to Mount Logan more than any other and both he and Canada West (either independently or together) have been conducting successful expeditions to Mount Logan for years. The climbers included Cathy Langhill, Katherine Calvert, Judy Sterner, Loraine Drewes, Diana Knaak and Sharon Wood. Group flies in from the US side to the border via Turbo Otter, a … Pepto Bismol tablets; Maalox, Gelusil M or Mylanta antacid tablets. If you want to charge your electronics along the way, a small, lightweight solar panel to charge batteries or portable charging device may be a good addition, Most come in kits with all the plugs you need. On the way to Mount Logan. Our route of choice – the King Trench – was the one used for the mountain’s first ascent in June, 1925. Descend to Camp 2 or continue as far as possible. Logan. Ice cores hold secrets of long ago climate. Bring a 2-4 cup camping bowl or a plastic "Rubbermaid" style container for your mountain dining, Powdered additives like Gatorade or NUUN tablets make treated water taste better, A 12-16 oz (350-500 ml) mug with an attached lid will help keep you hydrated. Few attempt Mount Logan, and even fewer succeed in reaching its summit. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive. Yet for all its extraordinary severities, Mount Logan—from its earliest ascent in 1925 by government surveyors with the ACC to the Arctic Institute of North America’s decade-long High Altitude Physiology Study in the 1970s—has constantly been a productive site for the advancement of scientific knowledge. The seriousness of Logan in terms of weather, altitude, and overall commitment level cannot be overstated. c/o Schweizer Alpen-Club SAC A Fellow of the Royal Canadian Geographical Society, Robinson is an avid climber and backcountry skier, and has a special affinity for the Yukon’s Icefield Ranges. Kein Nachteil, so meinen wir! This jacket should be full-zip, A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers, Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet, This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. Der Mount Logan 5.959 m im einsamen Wrangell-St. Elias-Gebirge ist der höchste Berg Kanadas und nach dem Denali der zweithöchste Gipfel Nordamerikas. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, terrorism and so forth. cleaning glasses, sun protection when tied around the neck, etc. Landcost: $7,000 Does not include bush pilot fee (~$1,250) or transport to Chitina (~$350). The Mount Logan King Trench Expedition is a ski-mountaineering trip, and requires use of alpine ski touring gear. Mount Logan comes second in height only to Denali, in Alaska, which is the highest mountain in North America at 20,310 feet. Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best, Light or medium-weight fleece (or wool) top with a hood. Climbing this mountain, in a mountaineering sense, is not highly technical. Although Logan is the highest summit in Canada it is still second in North America. Located deep within Kluane National Park and Reserve in the southwestern corner of Canada’s Yukon Territory, Mount Logan stands unrivaled in physical mass, and perhaps in mountain grandeur. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on! The starting point of this expedition … We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible. MacCarthy, an American and member of the American Alpine Club, wrote a number of reports and summaries of the expedition, including this list He was a wry, somewhat reserved man with a magnificent sense of humor and delighted in artfully contriving jokes for his expeditions. – 25 Days, Includes Glacier flights and shuttle from Whitehorse to Kluane Lake (RT). The Mount Logan Ice Expedition also seeks to pay homage to the mountain’s early climbing history. While a helicopter can sling-load drill equipment up onto the plateau with a pilot on oxygen, the team must climb there over a three-week period, from a base camp at 3,000 metres (following the standard “King Trench” mountaineering route), in order to properly acclimatize and be able to work safely at altitude. Participants will have a well-rounded history of climbing experience. The Expedition's aim is to conduct medical research during the course of an alpine ascent of Mount Logan which, at 5959 metres, is Canada's highest mountain. Steri Pen, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine. Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. The team meeting at 9 am in Whitehorse at the Days Inn Hotel (2288 Second Avenue) for a trip briefing. Please review our equipment list and contact us with any questions - Mount Logan Expedition equipment list. Throw … The Mount Logan massif is part of the most extensive non-polar icefield in the world. Join us for an attempt on Canada's highest peak, 5959m Mt. This price includes his fee for the guiding service, all permits and entrance fees, the flight from Haines Junction to Mount Logan base camp, all meals during the trip and all climbing and camping equipment. In close collaboration with the Mountain Legacy Project at the University of Victoria, the team will follow in the footprints of the mountain’s intrepid first ascensionists and attempt to retake photographs shot during expeditions in 1925, 1950, 1970, and 1992. This pad is used in conjunction with the first pad, Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing, Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos, under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm, Steel 12-pont. The 2020 Mount Logan Ice Expedition will be his fourth trip to the Saint Elias Mountains, and his third to Mount Logan. A dogsled team headed to a midway point to cache supplies for the 1925 Mount Logan Expedition. It is part of the Chic-Choc Mountains, a massif of the Notre Dame Mountains in the Appalachian Mountains. Founded in 1932, the UIAA is the international federation for climbing and mountaineering. At Camp 2 we’ll switch back to night schedule for the lower-elevation travel to Base Camp. Mostly I have enjoyed this mountain by wasting endless hours at the Icefield Discovery camp, sitting in a deck chair, sipping gin and tonics, and gazing at the many facets of the north face. Our guides know the mountain and may elect to depart from this itinerary in order to give you the best possible shot at getting to the summit. A tough day at altitude. Mt. The climbing style of the two is quite similar, however, with four to five camps being set up in the course of two weeks, a carry high, sleep low tactic is what we favor. No cotton! Glasses wearers should have a spare set, Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing, It can be a cold walk to the toilet at night. This intensive, pre-trip program seeks to advance knowledge about the use of high-intensity interval training in hypoxia (simulated altitude) to enhance work performance in extreme environments. Our first expedition in May 2020 will be a reconnaissance, utilizing ground-penetrating radar that will allow us to look at the internal structure of the ice on the plateau and find the best coring location. complete, go back through all of your equipment with a fine-toothed comb. Climb back over Prospectors Col and descend to Camp 4. A Few Tips on Gear for the Mt. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is mandatory. Terms & Conditions | Privacy Policy, Glacier Mountaineering Course -crevasse rescue, summit of Mount Baker, and more, Glacier travel, steep snow and ice climbing to 50-degrees, Sustained expedition travel utilizing sleds, Winter camping and long work days at altitude, Climbers should be in excellent physical condition and have a healthy and team-oriented expedition mentality, All group equipment (tents, climbing gear, etc), Hotel accommodations in Whitehorse/Kluane, Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy, $1,500 deposit upon confirmation of your eligibility to join the expedition, which includes a $300 non-refundable registration fee, Balance due 120 days prior to departure, The balance may be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee. All loads are carried by team members with the use of glacier sleds. Mount Logan Expedition. Rest and acclimatize at Camp 4 before the big move to high camp. Mount Logan sits on Canada’s massive Yukon Territory in the St. Elias Mountain Range, just around 10 miles from the Alaskan border. Glacier Mountaineering Course -crevasse rescue, summit of Mount Baker, and more, Featured Trips with Special Consideration (Carstensz, Cho Oyu, Denali, Logan and Vinson): We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. The Mount Logan massif is located in the Southwest corner of the Yukon Territory in Western Canada, just above the 60th parallel. Mount Logan is located within Kluane National Park Reserve in southwestern Yukon, less than 40 kilometres (25 mi) north of the Yukon–Alaska border. All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large heavyweight plastic bags (trash compactor bags work great), Toothbrush and paste, comb, tampons, biodegradable soap (small amount), etc. Albert H. MacCarthy Lantern Slide Collection. Mount Logan is a mountain located on the Gaspé Peninsula, in Quebec, Canada. Our guided ascent to Mount Logan epitomizes Mountain Madness’ spirit of adventure and will provide a huge challenge, but one with incredible reward. You can enjoy some of the most amazing trails in the Yukon right from our doorstep. Thus making this expedition a wonderful and adventurous journey up and down Canada’s most majestic peak. It is not difficult terrain, but a very demanding day of 10 – 15 hours. This is the crux of the climb, but does not involve technical climbing. Postfach CH-3000 Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. In 1977, an all-women’s team made an attempt on Mount Logan. Various uses, i.e. The techniques that are available for analyzing ice cores, and the range of information that can be extracted from them, are always advancing, and so the collecting and archiving of these icy records is of vital importance. Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Due to the remoteness of this expedition, the higher altitude and latitudes encountered, careful preparation is required. Today, for example, ice core science plays a critical role in understanding and preparing for the imminent challenges of climate change. Its many saw-tooth ridges, “like a cosmic comb,” rake moisture from the almost countless, year-round storms produced over the Pacific. Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. 31-38). The following itinerary represents a very basic outline of what could happen on a given day during the course of a Logan expedition. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc. The massif is inside Kluane National Park and is the crown-jewel of the St-Elias Mountains. Expedition leader Albert MacCarthy made this trip prior to the May departure date of the entire Mount Logan Expedition team. To block out snoring and other noise to ensure a good night's sleep, Two one-liter wide-mouthed plastic bottles, hydration bladder or water bag with drinking tube (must also have 1 Nalgene Bottle or equivalent). In 1890, I.C. Its remoteness, combined with arctic conditions make Logan one of … For his 20-day expedition to the summit of Mount Logan, Jeff charges CAD$7,700 per person. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type, Four large, pear-shaped carabiners are best, Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache, 6 non-locking carabiners. Climb Year: 1959. How much does it cost to climb Mount Logan? Blog. Russell of the U.S. Geological Survey, while undertaking a survey in the St. Elias Mountains, named Mount Logan for Sir William Edmond Logan (1798-1875). That means thousands attempt 20,320-foot Denali each year, while less than 100 attempt 19,551-foot Mount Logan. It is about 400 miles away to the northwest. Unprecedented in audacity, scale, and logistical challenge, and culminating in a desperate float down the Chitina River when all team members could no longer walk due to frostbite, many consider the original expedition to be “among the most arduous mountain adventures ever undertaken.” It is all the more impressive as it was the first ever attempt, by any route, on the mountain – a true adventure of epic proportions into the unknown. Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. +41 (0) 31 370 1828. Possible summit days. Its unusually steep northern flank is visible from Cap-Chat, on the estuary of Saint … Guided attempts have been few, so this will be a golden opportunity, especially for Canadians, to summit Canada’s highest peak! The high-altitude site boasted extremely low horizontal ice velocities, meaning that the ice contained little melt or deformation and so climate record was well preserved.